Category Archives: landmarks

The Kitchen at the Golden Temple

When we went to the Golden Temple back in November, I also shot a video for Smithsonian Magazine. It’s finally up on the website. Check it out here.

The Gateway of India at Night

Oh, the Gateway of India. Bombay might lack a proper skyline—I am from Chicago, and few cities can hold a flame—but this giant gate is a decent replacement.

Obligatory historical information: Built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911, the original gate was built out of plaster of paris—the same material now used to create the Ganesh idols for Ganpati each year.

I particularly love people watching here. To be more specific, I love watching the men try to sell people ridiculous items like giant (think 4 feet long) balloons and flying lights.

It’s a tourist hub—both for foreigners and Indians. When Arnab and I stopped by during Dahi Handi, two younger Indian men asked to take a picture with me. I was so startled, I posed. With each of them.

Heritage Walk: Rediscover Bombay

Each face that lines this building is different.

Francis, our quirky tour guide, led us through the gates and down into an abandoned alley. I looked around confused—and I wasn’t the only one. He gathers us in front of a dilapidated shed, and says:

“I can’t tell you how I know this, but there are two sculptures in there.”

He points to the shed. He invites us to peer through a small hole about the size of a fist. Sure enough, when I get my turn, I can barely make out two British-era statues. Earlier, still at the Hub, Francis had shown us dozens of British sculptures that had quite literally been dumped at the Bombay Zoo after the British left—some missing hands and feet and heads.

I have written about the Hub before, but last Saturday I signed up for an event unrelated to work—a walk around South Bombay. After eating at a local thali place, where I sat next to a silent old man, Francis led us around the historic Fort neighborhood. Continue reading

View From Bandra Fort

A few weeks ago, Arnab I went for a Sunday walk around the Bandra Fort. I took this picture of men, young and old, sitting on the wall looking toward the Sea Link. It was a gorgeous day (read: no rain), and the fort was crawling with visitors: parents with kids, groups of young men and couples hiding in the trees trying to steal a kiss.

A Walk Down Juhu Beach

Juhu Beach

Beaches in India, or at least in Mumbai, aren’t exactly the beaches from my childhood. Sure there’s sand and water and waves. But there are no swimsuit-clad people or frisbees or colorful towels lining the surf. Discarded plastic chai cups, coconuts, corn husks and all other manner of trash dot the shoreline—no trash can in sight. Stray dogs wander up and down the sand, and birds pick at the garbage.

Arnab and I went to Juhu Beach this weekend, and while I wouldn’t dare don a swimsuit here, it was a nice afternoon. I walked a few feet ahead of Arnab and commented, “This is the most personal space I’ve had since coming to India.”

It was true. As you can see from the picture, the beach is crowded by the food stalls and mini-carousels near the main road, but as you travel farther down the crowd thins out. People gather near the water—although the tide that day came up an extra 20 feet—but few people actually go in. I definitely wouldn’t. I think I’ll adopt a “look but don’t touch” philosophy at beaches here, except maybe in Goa.

I could definitely picture taking some peaceful afternoon walks down the beach, bhuta (grilled corn) in one hand and a coconut with a straw sticking out of it in the other. I’m just not sure what I’ll do with the leftovers once I’m done…

When a Man With a Gun Says Leave…

The Bombay Stock Exchange

When a man with a gun says leave, I generally listen, not that I’ve ever been in such a situation before. I might be slightly guilty of a sensational headline, but the story is as follows.

On assignment to get investors’ reactions to the first Indian microfinance firm’s initial public offering this past week, I was sent down to the Bombay Stock Exchange. (If that sentence means nothing to you, it’s ok. It didn’t mean much to me a few weeks back either and its meaning isn’t critical to the story.) The BSE is the oldest stock exchange in Asia and located in a historic area of South Bombay.

As soon as I walked out of Churchgate station, I spotted the building towering over the others in the skyline. It would be easy enough to find. And it was. As I neared the building, police blockades prohibited any cars from entering the streets surrounding the stock exchange, for good reason. A car parked in the basement of the stock exchange exploded Friday, March 12, 1993 killing 50 people. (In a testament to the Indian “life must go on” mentality, the exchange itself reopened that following Monday.) In this area, they don’t mess around with security. Guards are outfitted with guns, and I even saw a gunman standing at the ready behind a make-shift stand covered with blue tarp.

I had my doubts about getting in, however, and those were confirmed. No one is allowed inside without a scheduled appointment. So much for that. (My editor later told me that the idea was for me to catch people on their way to lunch, so I spent a few hours working out of a café.)

I returned to Dalal Street around 1 p.m. The street had been quiet when I was there earlier that morning, but the hungry investors were out in force now. None of them wanted to talk to me, however. Most stared curiously at me: a white girl standing just outside the stock exchange, notebook and small flipcam in hand. I began pulling people aside. Continue reading