Monthly Archives: August 2010

Informal is Just Another Word for Illegal

A friend of mine from back home sent me a story from the St. Louis Dispatch about a recent graduate who had moved to India. Sounds familiar. I guess I’m not the only one.

But my frustration with the writer, and the story itself, began after reading the headline: “How bad is it? Job market lands St. Louis grad in India.” Apparently this kid views moving to India as some sort of unemployment exile. While I might not be in India had I received some great job offer after graduation, I think of my move in terms of reasons to move to India as opposed to reasons not to stay in the U.S.

But it gets better. The writer is simply amazed that this kid can download “Mad Men” from his seemingly backwater apartment. And he can barely comprehend that fact that some people prefer to read the newspaper in print. (Mr. Giegerich, lots of people in the U.S. still prefer newsprint, too.)

But the best part comes when the article talks about how the kid doesn’t plan to stay in India for very long:

For one thing, the tourist visa issued Hudson under India’s quirky immigration laws require him to take a two-month break every six months.

Ah, yes, those quirky immigration laws that require tourists to eventually leave the country. But wait a second. Shouldn’t he have an employment visa if he’s working? Yes.

“Technically, I’m an illegal worker,” he said, adding that “luckily, everything in India happens informally.”

Wait. Everything in India happens informally. Silly me. Why then did I wait weeks for appropriate paperwork from my employer, pay $143 for an employment visa and wait in line in an office downtown Chicago?

So I don’t have to tell my future employers that I worked as an illegal immigrant in India.

Drought in Our Apartment

All I want is water

Our water has been functioning on and off for the past few weeks. It’s impossible to get a straight answer out of anyone.

“The tanks are being cleaned.”

“The underground water pump isn’t working.”

“It comes on at noon everyday.”

We’ve had water out of one tap since Wednesday, and the toilet hasn’t worked since then either. Good thing we bought a nice bucket!

This morning, I was squatting under the one functioning water tap like Gollum and trying to get the shampoo out of my hair when the water stops. Completely stops. I turn it off and back on. It spits at me.

We called the landlord, and he came up offering the normal excuses and understanding none of my nasty sarcasm. He told us the watchman had opened the tap early today because people have children going to school that need to shower. Arnab started asking what that had to do with us, when I piped in.

“No, he’s saying we have to get up at 6 a.m. if we want to shower.”

The landlord said yes.

I realized I was late for work and ran out the door, but we still have no real answers, though I do believe the landlord brought up some 20-liter jugs of water for us to use. I wonder how long those will last…

Mumbai’s 24-hour Work Ethic

Arnab and I were headed home one night when we came upon an odd site at the train station. Across the tracks, we saw men burning something—what it was we couldn’t tell.

We wondered if they were working or if they were some sort of homeless family living in the station. Since it was so dark, we couldn’t see what it was they were actually burning. We took a few pictures and boarded our train home.

Finally, Arnab asked a man on the train what they were doing.

“Repaving,” he replied. To them, it was a normal maintenance activity, but to us, a photo opportunity.

Why would men be repaving the station at midnight on a weekday? So the daytime train schedule wouldn’t be disrupted, of course. It all makes sense when you think—and ask—about it.

Stuck in Hello

“Hello?”

“Hi, my name is Abby…”

“Hello?”

“Hello. My name is Abby, and I…”

“Hello?”

“Can I talk to the CEO?”

“Hello?”

This is how most of my phone conversations have started this week at work. Whether or not I get past the cycle of hellos depends on whether or not the person on the other end of the line speaks English and can understand my version of English. I’m reassured to read that the hello cycle is apparently business as usual in India (and Bangladesh).

I’ve been calling microfinance institutions in India and Bangladesh for two different assignments this week. I’ve been hung up on more times than I can count—both by people who don’t understand me or don’t speak English. At some points, I’ve wanted to hang up as well.

The frustrating thing is that once I get through to someone, they’re generally willing and happy to talk to me. Today, I finally got transferred through to someone who could answer my questions about the interest rate at a Bangladeshi MFI, but he wanted to quiz me first.

“Where are you calling from.”

“Mumbai.”

“Ah, Mumbai. Are you Indian?”

“Me? No. But the company is.”

“You’re not Indian. What country are you from?”

“The US.”

“New York?”

“Chicago.”

“Ah, Chicago! The US. What can I tell you today?

A Train to Virar

Women waiting for the train

Last night, I boarded a Bandra-bound train after work. The train tends to be less crowded than ones that are going all the way to Churchgate. Sure enough, I got a seat and watched passengers trickle out bit by bit as the train emptied. When we pulled into Khar, a few older women jumped on. By jump, I literally mean jump. The train hadn’t stopped, and other passenger hadn’t gotten off yet.

The group of them headed over to where I was sitting. A common practice, the women began asking seated passengers where they were getting off so they could claim their seats. One of them looked at me.

“Bandra?”

I nodded my head. “Everyone’s getting off at Bandra,” I thought. “This train stops at Bandra.”

Of course, my logic doesn’t work in this situation—it rarely does in India. The train will stop at Bandra, but it will then go the opposite direction. These women, in all their train savvy, hopped on the train early to ensure they got a seat for the long trip to Virar. Clever.

I make a point never to get on a Virar train when traveling North. The majority of trains only go to Borivali, so when the Virar train comes, it gets packed. Arnab and I made the mistake of getting on the same car (2nd class general) on a late train back home from Churchgate. The car started out clear enough, but by the time we got to Bandra, I was clawing my way through smelly men.

But I didn’t think the crowding began before the train started traveling in the right direction. When the train approached, I got up to stand near the doors so I could fight my way off. I looked to my right and saw women huddling near the sides of the entryway.

“Stand to the side. The women will jump on.”

And they did. With me standing right in the middle.

How to Clean a Live Crab

Our giant crab

My job requires that I pay attention to Twitter during every waking hour, so when I saw a local blogger mentioned a contest closing that day, I went to her blog to check it out. She was asked to review a seafood restaurant, and the chef agreed to give one “reader a chance to cook up an epic meal for someone special along with him at Pebbles one evening.”

All you had to do was describe your someone special. I did. And I won.

So, Saturday night we headed off to Juhu for our meal at Pebbles—after getting absolutely drenched in the rains trying to hail a rickshaw. The PR lady and the chef greeted us. We sat down, and began to look over the menu. The chef came over and pointed out the special tasting menu. We decided to go for it.

The chef led us over where he had two live crabs waiting for us to decide which one we wanted to eat. Arnab pointed at the larger one. As I posed for pictures, the crab clawed at my scarf and dress. He was heavy!

The chef showed us how to clean (read: cut him into pieces) while he was still alive, instead of throwing him into hot water and holding down the lid. It’s purely based on flavor. I’m almost positive I could never do that myself, but it was interesting to learn how.

The finishing touch

A white apron was tied on as I took my place behind the live kitchen in the dining room. A family with small children also decided to watch the demonstration, so I was a little nervous. The chef dropped the crab legs into the pot and briefly put the cover on. When he lifted the top off mere minutes later, the crab legs were turning a bright orange—the legs twitched and made the little kids jump back.

The crab was delicious as was almost everything else we ate that night. I discovered appam, a bread made out of fermented rice dough, parboiled rice and neer dosa, a crepe-type thing made from rice. My favorite dish was a Keralan coconut curry of tiger prawns. The prawns were good, but it was the sauce that made it great. The tasting menu was four courses: giant crab, soup, main course and dessert. By the time we got to the dessert, we could barely look at food anymore. It might have been the giant crab or it might have been the tiny cheese crackers they kept refilling for us.

All in all, the meal made me certain of two things: crab is best eaten with your hands in a nice restaurant and Kerala is now on my must-go list.

Can I Speak to the CEO please?

I’ve had enough journalism jobs to know that it’s tough work getting past the PR people and talking to anyone who actually knows anything. If the person possesses a title that sounds important in any way, it’ll be near impossible. In India, that rule doesn’t seem to apply as much.

I was working on a story about a report studying the causes of the microfinance loan defaults in Karnataka (if you’re interested, here’s the link) this week. My editor gave me the cell phone number of the company’s CEO. This wasn’t a small-time microfinance institution, rather a very well-known one that just made millions (of US dollars) from a public stock offer.

I looked at the penciled-in cell phone number on his business card and set it next to my laptop on my desk. “Because that’s going to work,” I thought.

So, I went the traditional route of calling the communications department, who promptly told me they were not aware of the report. “Of course you aren’t,” I thought. I was instructed to email the report along with information about what I was doing to the head of communications, and they would see if anyone had read it. “Because that’s going to work,” I thought. I sent off the email knowing I had just wasted two minutes of my life typing it up.

My unofficial deadline was the end of the day. (In online journalism, your deadline is always ASAP.) I hadn’t heard from anyone at the company by 6pm. I fingered the card still sitting next to me. At a few minutes after 6pm, I dialed the cell phone number. “If nothing else, I can say I tried,” I thought. The CEO picks up on the second ring. He doesn’t hang up when I explain who I am. He talks to me. He answers every single question I ask. With good answers, too. We have a real conversation.

Try doing that in America.

A Walk Down Juhu Beach

Juhu Beach

Beaches in India, or at least in Mumbai, aren’t exactly the beaches from my childhood. Sure there’s sand and water and waves. But there are no swimsuit-clad people or frisbees or colorful towels lining the surf. Discarded plastic chai cups, coconuts, corn husks and all other manner of trash dot the shoreline—no trash can in sight. Stray dogs wander up and down the sand, and birds pick at the garbage.

Arnab and I went to Juhu Beach this weekend, and while I wouldn’t dare don a swimsuit here, it was a nice afternoon. I walked a few feet ahead of Arnab and commented, “This is the most personal space I’ve had since coming to India.”

It was true. As you can see from the picture, the beach is crowded by the food stalls and mini-carousels near the main road, but as you travel farther down the crowd thins out. People gather near the water—although the tide that day came up an extra 20 feet—but few people actually go in. I definitely wouldn’t. I think I’ll adopt a “look but don’t touch” philosophy at beaches here, except maybe in Goa.

I could definitely picture taking some peaceful afternoon walks down the beach, bhuta (grilled corn) in one hand and a coconut with a straw sticking out of it in the other. I’m just not sure what I’ll do with the leftovers once I’m done…

Holy Monsoon!

The past two mornings have greeted me with a wet slap across the face. The little bit of fabric sticking out from my raincoat was totally soaked through by the time I reached the shared rickshaw—a two minute walk. Water dripped off the duck-bill of my coat down my face as I sat crammed in the back of the rickshaw.

Yesterday morning, the rain subsided in time for me to stand outside Malad station and catch a rickshaw. This morning? No such luck. The rains picked up as I stood there. Umbrellas rushed around me inhibiting my rickshaw catching skills. How can I get close enough to ask a driver when eight umbrellas are in front of me? For 20 minutes, I gripped the opening on the side of my bag and attempted to keep water from seeping in and killing my computer. (Thank god I succeeded.) A young woman offered me her umbrella, though they don’t do much in rainy and windy weather.

A young man told me “You have to fight for a rick.” I smile and nod. I know. That’s something I’ve noticed about looking foreign: everyone always assumes it’s your first time. First time catching a rickshaw. First time on the train. The list goes on. He asked where I’m going. Apparently D-Mart was on his way. I eventually got a driver to agree, and I, my new friend and his friend piled in the back.

I arrived at work an hour and a half after leaving my apartment, late for my conference call and drenched. I was tempted to ring out my skirt before walking in the building. My Crocs squished with every step, and my grey skirt was now multicolored. It was lunchtime before I felt dry again. Yesterday, my leather ballet flats dried in just enough time for me to head back out in the deluge.

Apparently, it has been Mumbai’s wettest day so far this season, so it’s not just me. Santa Cruz, a few miles from our apartment, got more than six inches. Looks like we won’t get much relief for the rest of the week, either. But, if it means I never have to take another crouch-under-tap shower, I guess I can handle it.

Reminders of Insecurity

Arnab’s dad stayed at a very nice hotel last week when he was here. The rickshaws Arnab and I took to meet him for dinner aren’t even allowed past the gate.We would get out on the street and be the only people walking up to the hotel—everyone else was shuttled to the front door by taxi cabs and hired drivers.

Before cars can pass the gate, they need to pass a security check. There is a man who stands outside the gate 24/7 and looks under each and every car that wants entry. He uses what looks like a shovel with a mirror on top. He’s checking for car bombs, of course. Even at five-star hotels, they don’t mess around with security here.